苎麻和天丝混纺织物的工艺设计

盐城纺织职业技术学院

2012届毕业设计（论文）

Tencel/苎麻混纺直贡织物的

题 目

工艺设计

专 业 学 号 姓 名 指导老师 交稿日期

现代纺织技术（丝绸911）

09106116 李娜娜 张国兵 二〇一一年十二月

Tencel/苎麻混直贡纺织物的工艺设计 摘要

摘要

随着科学技术的进步以及人们生活水平的提高，消费者对纺织品的要求越来越高，除了纺织品本身的风格外，纺织品的舒适性、保健性、功能性等也日益被消费者所重视，近几年来新型纤维的出现和发展满足了消费者的需求。

本文以Tencel/苎麻混纺直贡织物的工艺设计为对象设计面料。\天丝\被誉为\二十一世纪的绿色纤维\。具有柔软悬垂、触感独特、飘逸动感、透气透湿、素雅光泽等特点，给人以满足、安全、充满质感、高贵大方的感觉。苎麻具有抗菌抑菌、除臭吸附、吸湿透气、防霉耐磨功能。苎麻的耐磨性好，可以弥补缎纹耐磨性差的缺点。直贡织物结构紧密，经纬交织点较少，经纱在织物表面浮线较长，布面大部由经纱所覆盖，因而质地柔软，富有光泽。选用天丝和苎麻为原料，加之直贡的布面效果，既能充分发挥原料本身的优良性能，又具有良好的手感和视觉效果。

本论文主要论述了织物的风格特征和作用，织物的规格设计与计算以及工艺流程。络筒工艺设计，整经工艺设计，浆纱工艺设计，穿结工艺设计，织造工艺设计，整理工艺设计和结论等内容。具体介绍了各部分工艺设计的目的和要求，设备选型，具体参数和设计。

关键词：Tencel，苎麻，混纺，工艺设计。

作者：李娜娜 导师：张国兵

Ⅰ

Tencel/苎麻混直贡纺织物的工艺设计 Abstract

Abstract

With the advances in technology and people's living standards improve, consumers have become increasingly demanding of textiles, textile products in addition to their own style, textile comfort, health, functionality, etc. are also increasingly valued by consumers, in recent years the emergence and development of new fiber to meet the needs of the consumers.

In this paper, Tencel / Ramie blended satin fabric technology designed for object design fabrics. \feel unique, elegant movement, breathable breathable, elegant luster, etc., to meet people, safe, full of texture, noble and generous feeling. Ramie has antibacterial, deodorant adsorption, moisture permeability, mildew resistant features. Ramie wear resistance, and can make up for the shortcomings of poor wear resistance satin. Tencel and ramie used as raw materials, combined with the fabric satin effect material can fully play their excellent performance, but also has a good feel and visual effects.

This paper discusses the characteristics of the fabric of style and function, design and calculation of fabric and process specifications, winding process design, process design warping, sizing process design, process design by wearing knot, weaving process design and finishing processes design and conclusions of such content. Specifically describes the various parts of the purpose and requirements of the process design, equipment selection, the specific parameters and design.

Keywords: Tencel, ramie, blended, process design.

Author: LiNaNa

Teacher:ZhangGuoBing

Ⅱ

Tencel/苎麻混直贡纺织物的工艺设计 目录

目录

摘要............................................................... Ⅰ Abstract........................................................... Ⅱ 前言................................................................ 1 第一章 规格设计和工艺流程........................................... 2

1.1规格设计..................................................... 2 1.2工艺流程..................................................... 5 1.3上机图....................................................... 5 第二章 原料选配..................................................... 6

2.1原料......................................................... 6 2.2捻度......................................................... 6 2.3经纬纱密度................................................... 6 2.4质量的要求................................................... 6 第三章 络筒工艺设计................................................. 7

3.1络筒的目的和要求............................................. 7

3.1.1目的 ................................................... 7 3.1.2络筒的要求 ............................................. 7 3.2设备选型..................................................... 7 3.3工艺设计中注意的问题......................................... 8 3.4具体工艺选配................................................. 8 3.5产质量的控制................................................. 9 4.1整经的目的、要求............................................ 10

4.1.1整经的目的 ............................................ 10 4.1.2整经的要求 ............................................ 10 4.2整经方法.................................................... 10 4.3设备选配.................................................... 10 4.4工艺设计中注意的问题........................................ 11 4.5具体的工艺选配.............................................. 11 4.6产质量控制.................................................. 15 第五章 浆纱工艺设计................................................ 16

5.1 浆纱的目的、原理和方法 ..................................... 16

5.1.1浆纱的目的 ............................................ 16 5.1.2浆纱基本原理 .......................................... 16 5.1.3上浆的方法 ............................................ 16 5.2上浆的要求.................................................. 17 5.3设备选型.................................................... 17 5.4浆料配方和各种成分作用...................................... 18 5.5具体的工艺配备.............................................. 18 5.6产质量控制.................................................. 19 第六章 穿结工艺设计................................................ 20

6.1设配选型.................................................... 20 6.2工艺设计注意的问题.......................................... 20 6.3具体工艺配备................................................ 20